How to spend a week in the Itria Valley

Are you planning a holiday to the sun-drenched paradise of Puglia in 2023? This up-and-coming tourist destination is still relatively new to tourism and offers visitors the chance to have off-the-beaten-track experiences and plenty of opportunities to connect with real locals going about their daily lives. Whilst, summer travelers may be inclined to spend their time along the coast, why not opt for a strategic home base that allows you to explore the best of inland and coastal Puglia?

No matter what season you decide to visit, consider basing yourself deep in the countryside, surrounded by olive trees as far as the eye can see and fairy-like trulli houses in the Itria Valley. Keep reading to discover the best way to spend a week in the gorgeous Itria Valley in 2023.

Where is the Itria Valley, Puglia?

This little area of Puglia runs from the outskirts Bari and Brindisi, stretching across to the province of Taranto, and the lower part of Murgia. You’ll drive through flat red earth that contrasts spectacularly against piercing blue skies, olive trees, and striking white-washed hilltop towns in the distance. This area of Puglia is most famous for Alberobello (the tour buses have found their way here). However, there are plenty of other lesser-known, yet equally beautiful towns to discover in the region including Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Ostuni and Cisternino.

How long to spend in the Valle d’Itria?

There is so much to discover within this little area, that you could easily spend a week minimum exploring. The Valle d’Itria makes for a great base to explore further afield along the Adriatic Coast or even for day trips down south into the Salento too. Of course, not everyone has unlimited vacation time, so as a guide I would recommend at least three nights here to get a feel of this beautiful part of the world.

Where to stay in the Valle d’Itria?

I recommend staying in a beautiful masseria – the Pugliese version of an ‘agriturismo‘. These countryside estates are frankly gorgeous and there are plenty of options (and price points) to choose from. If you’re visiting from May-October, definitely consider staying at a property with a swimming pool, as Puglia enjoys a warm climate during these months and you’ll be thankful for the pool. For those not keen on driving at night, make sure you choose a masseria in the Itria Valley that offers a restaurant too. I would recommend staying in the countryside outside Martina Franca and Locorotondo, but alternatively, you should consider staying near Fasano for the best access to the Coast too. Some of my favorite masseria to stay in include:

• Masseria Salamina
• Masseria San Michele
• Masseria Iazzo Scagno
• Masseria Montenapoleone

Tips for a holiday in the Itria Valley, Italy

• To arrive, take the fast train from Rome in just four hours to Bari.
• Rent a car: This is really a non-negotiable as public transport is scarce and unreliable.
• Learn Italian/Get a guide: The level of English in some of these small towns is minimal! I cannot stress the importance enough of speaking Italian or going with someone who does so you can have a richer experience.
• Slow pace: Don’t try and fit a trip to Puglia in a few days. It’s a big region and the pace of life is slower here. A week will allow for a more relaxed vacation and the chance to soak in daily life.

How to spend your week’s holiday in the Itria Valley

Day 1: Locorotondo

The most convenient airport to arrive to would be Bari Airport. Alternatively, fly into Rome and get the 4 hour high-speed train to Bari Railway Station. Pick up a car or organise a driver for your time in the Itria Valley from the airport – this is really a non-negotiable for visiting the Itria Valley. Check in to your beautiful countryside masseria before heading out to explore Locorotondo.

Every time I’ve been in this area of Puglia, we’ve inadvertently passed Locorotondo countless times on our way to other towns in the area. And every time, we’ve stared in awe at pretty Locorotondo perched up high on the hill. This gorgeous whitewashed town begs discovery, and you can enjoy views of the classic trulli without the crowds at nearby Alberobello. Spend your afternoon strolling town, popping into ceramic stores and boutiques with a gelato in hand, before settling down for a sunset aperitivo.

My preferred place in town is a little secret. But let me tell you the views are five-star, and the bill is ridiculously cheap! They have a range of great local wines, classic spritzes and create fresh and local dishes of cucina povera.

Day 2: Grottaglie and Ceglie Messapica

Enjoy a leisurely morning before hitting the road bound for ceramic heaven – Grottaglie. You’ll most likely be looking at a half-hour ride at least, so if you’re planning on shopping up a storm, leave early before the shops close over lunch. Drive down to the Quartiere delle Ceramiche where you’ll discover workshop upon artist’s workshop. Here, the town glistens and gleams with vibrantly colored mosaics lining the walls and local dogs drink out of impossibly beautiful ceramic water bowls.

Enjoy a few hours popping into some of the shops and picking up gifts and stunning ceramics for the home. If you find yourself in need of a caffeine stop, fuel up again at the gorgeous literary cafe Casa Merini (via delle Torri 4), recommended by Emiko Davies.

With stomachs beginning to rumble, hop back in the car and drive to nearby Ceglie Messapica. It’s another local town in the area with a pretty historical center and a little sleepy during the day. At first glance, you might wonder where you’re headed, but follow the directions (and your stomach) to Cibus for a fabulous farm-to-table meal. Bookings are required and don’t order the ricotta forte unless you like exceptionally strong cheese!

Enjoy a leisurely stroll through town after lunch before relaxing back at your Masseria. Dinner at ‘home’ tonight!

Day 3: Martina Franca and Cisternino

Martina Franca is an absolute gem! This baroque beauty is one of the largest towns in all of the Itria Valley and there is so much happening here on the weekends or during aperitivo hour. Try to time your visit to coincide with the Sunday antiques market if possible. Whilst in town, don’t miss trying the famous Capocollo of Martina Franca. It’s a tasty cured salami and is protected under the Slow Food Presidium.

Spend your evening exploring whitewashed, peaceful Cisternino. It comes to life during aperitivo hour when all the butcher shops turn into ‘restaurants’! Go for a leisurely walk, pop into one of the many gorgeous shops for some authentic souvenirs and then head over to Zio Pietro for a knock-up butcher shop dinner.

Day 4: Winery visit and olive oil tasting

Red earth dotted with silvery olive trees is what comes to mind when I think about the Itria Valley. This striking landscape is a sight to behold, so you owe at least one morning to visiting an olive oil grove. Take a look at this list of award-winning olive oils in Puglia to make sure you visit a top-notch destination. Make sure you choose a farm that allows you to walk through the groves and even hug an olive tree if you so desire! Try this one if you’re looking for a tour that includes walking through groves and a tasting.

Whilst Puglia was once synonymous with bulk wine (it makes up the bulk of Italy’s production), it is now a real up-and-coming wine region. There are many beautiful wineries across the region doing excellent things, regenerating indigenous grapes and creating fabulous wines. Check out a list of some of the best to visit via the Slow Wine Puglia list. I’ve had Morella winery on my list for a while in Manduria as it’s run by an Australian and gets the full tick of approval from Emiko Davies’ sommelier husband Marco! If you don’t want to drive and want to relax and enjoy the winery, the best thing to do is join a day or half day tour like this one near Martina Franca.

Spend your afternoon wine tasting before a relaxing evening back at your Masseria.

Day 5: Visit the Adriatic Coast

Whilst the inland is compelling, the sea eventually beckons. There are so many beautiful towns scattered along the Adriatic Coast, with none more charming than Monopoli and the touristy but beautiful Polignano al Mare. Enjoy a morning in Polignano, where you can go swimming at the most Instagrammable beach imaginable before you stop off for a casual fish lunch at Pescaria. Don’t miss a caffe speciale before you leave – it’s a Polignano specialty.

Spend your afternoon at nearby Monopoli. It’s a gorgeous fishing village which is becoming more and more discovered every year – so visit now to enjoy it at its best! Don’t miss taking some photos with the iconic green fishing boats that bob up and down, a swim at the tiny but pretty town beach, and wandering the maze of old streets in the historical center. There are some fantastic places for aperitivo and restaurants to enjoy a delicious seafood dinner here. I’ll share my favourite addresses on the Untold Italy Tours or with private clients.

Day 6: Ostuni and Lecce

Of course, no trip to Puglia would really be complete without a visit to the capital of the Salento – stunning Lecce. It’s often described as the Florence of the South, but it’s so much more than that. It’s an elegant sandstone city with a fun and youthful vibe thanks to being a University city. Full of gorgeous old palazzi, you can feel the greatness bounding off the pavement here. Spend your morning looking in at some fantastic artisan workshops (they tend to close in the afternoons), before stopping at Caffe Alvino for a caffe’ lecesse and rustico (puff pastry filled with passata and mozzarella) for lunch.

This afternoon, on your way back to the Itria Valley, stop in for a wander through Ostuni. It’s the biggest whitewashed town in Puglia and a real beauty! Unfortunately, the bus groups have discovered it, so it’s not off the beaten track like Martina Franca is, but nonetheless, a beautiful place to visit.

Day 7: Visit Taranto and Gallipoli

If you still have gas in the tank (literally as well as energy wise!), spend your final day in the Itria Valley Italy, exploring the Ionian Coast. Gallipoli has a reputation as a party town, so if that’s your vibe, by all means, go and enjoy. There is a wonderful sandy free beach there too for those wanting some more swimming time.

Taranto is another option that I’m yet to explore. It has a rich history dating back to Ancient times and is full of fabulous historical sites to visit including the Aragonese Castle and Greek Temple of Poseidon. Food is another reason to explore – Taranto is renowned for their oysters and mussels which are even a Slow Food Presidium product. The special way to enjoy them here is raw!

Visit the Itria Valley Italy in 2023 and beyond

Live out your Itria Valley dream in 2023 and beyond. It is such a special part of the world that hasn’t yet been overrun by mass tourism and is full of beautiful towns, incredible food, and local culture to soak in. Looking for more tips? Take a read of my Puglia Travel Guide, the best things to do in Puglia, best hotels in Puglia guide, and the best Puglia food. Visited before? Let me know your top tips in the comments.